World’s smallest bag

May 18, 2011 at 8:49 pm | Posted in knitting patterns | Leave a comment
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This cute bag is perfect for evenings out – just enough room for mobile, keys and a few drachmas. It knits up quickly in an aran weight yarn; the eyelash yarn gives it visual and tactile interest. It is lined with silky fabric for a touch of class, and a popper keeps your stuff safe.  Super easy; makes a great gift.

The bag is knit flat in stocking stitch. The eyelash yarn is carried along with the main yarn every 7 rows. These rows are knit in the ‘opposite’ stitch (i.e. knit when you would normally purl, and vice versa) to ensure that the interesting bits of the eyelash yarn stay on the right side of the fabric.

You will need:

Debbie Bliss Stella, 1 skein (50g), black

Sirdar Fizz, 1 skein (50g), graphite

4mm double pointed needles, or a 4mm circular needle

Material to line bag

Large popper

Sewing thread, pins, needle (or sewing machine!)


Bag (knit 2)

Cast on 25 sts in the main yarn (Stella)

Row 1: knit

Row 2: purl

Continue in stocking stitch for 4 more rows.

Row 7: purl, using both yarns held together. (Note that you would normally expect to knit this row as you are doing stocking stitch.)

Row 8: purl

Row 9: knit

Continue in stocking stitch for 4 more rows, twisting the two yarns together at the beginning of every even-numbered row.

Row 14: knit, using both yarns held together. (Note that you would normally expect to purl this row as you are doing stocking stitch.)

Row 15: purl

Continue knitting in stocking stitch, knitting every 7th row in the ‘opposite’ stitch and carrying the eyelash yarn along with the main yarn on this row, until you have done 6 repeats (42 rows in total).

S/s for 5 more rows.

Cast off (bind off).


C/o 5 stitches on circular needle or double pointed needles

Make I-cord (see knitpurlhunter’s YouTube video, or follow instructions below)

Row 1: knit

Row 2: Push knitting to other end of needle. Turn work. Knit into the ‘wrong’ end of the work, pulling the yarn tight.

Repeat row 2, pulling the yarn as tight as you can each time, so that the work turns itself into a little tube.

Continue until work measures 11 inches, or the length you want your handle to be.

Cast off (bind off).

Tidy up the loose ends; no need to weave them in (hurrah!).

Assemble and line bag

Press and steam the two sides of the bag from the wrong side. Try to pull them into shape so they match each other in shape and size.

Place the right sides of the bag together (cast off edges together at the top) and pin, matching up the eyelash yarn rows as closely as you can. Tuck in any bits of eyelash yarn that are sticking out.

Sew the two sides of the bag together using the main yarn and a simple overstitch, leaving the cast off edges unsewn (this will be the opening for the bag).


Fold the material double with the right side inside. Turn the bag the right way out and lay it on top, with the bottom of the bag lying along the fold of the material. Using the bag as your guide, cut out a rectangle that is about 1cm wider all round than the bag itself. Don’t cut the folded edge – this is the bottom of the lining.

Tack the two sides of the lining together about 1cm from the edge. Without turning it right side out, slide it inside the bag and check that it fits. If it is too large or small, adjust the seams so that it fits better. You need it to fit quite snugly. Sew the seams when you are happy with the fit.

With the lining still inside out, turn the top edge out and down so it is outside the lining. Compare with the bag: you want the lining to be slightly shorter than the bag. Press the turned-down bit so that it stays down. Slide the lining back into the bag and pin along the top edge, slightly below the edge of the bag. Sew in place all around the top edge.


Lay the bag flat. Pin one end of the handle to the inside of the back of the bag, about an inch from the left side seam. Being careful not to twist the handle, pin the other end of the handle to the inside of the front of the bag, about an inch from the right side seam. (This ‘crossover’ handle looks cute, and also encourages the bag to hang flat rather than collapsing inwards when held by the handle.) Sew the handle ends in place.


Sew the popper onto the inside of the bag, lining the two sides up carefully and making sure you sew through the lining securely into the fabric of the bag, to avoid tearing the lining when you open the popper.

Man About Town neckwarmer with button

December 17, 2010 at 7:13 pm | Posted in knitting patterns | 1 Comment
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Man About Town neckwarmer

This pattern makes a neckwarmer that is 21” long, which fits my two-and-a-half year old. 2×2 rib makes it lovely and cosy. It looks smart and cute, and has the advantage that it can be taken off over the head by the child without undoing the button. (Click the thumbnail for a larger image.)


50g DK yarn

4mm circular needle**

Large button

**NB this pattern is knit flat, not in the round. But using a circular needle means you can restart knitting at either side of the work, just by pushing it along the needle. This makes it easier around the buttonhole. If you use straight needles, you may need to swap the stitches from one needle to the other at certain points making the buttonhole.


Cast on 30 stitches.

Row A: *k2, p2. Repeat from * to end.

Row B: *p2, k2. Repeat from * to end.

Continue in this 2×2 rib pattern until work measures 18”.


To work the buttonhole, you just divide the knitting in half, and work one side separately from the other. Then they are joined together at the top of the buttonhole.

Row 1: Rib 15, keeping in pattern (i.e. purl the purl stitches, and knit the knit ones). Turn work around, leaving the remaining 15 stitches un-worked on your needle.
Row 2: Rib 15 back to the start of the row. Turn work again.
Row 3: As Row 1.
Row 4: As Row 2.
Row 5: As Row 1.

Break yarn. Leave these 15 stitches on your needle. Reattach yarn to the work at the bottom of the buttonhole. Now work the other side of the buttonhole.

Row 1: Rib the remaining 15 stitches that you have been ignoring up to now. Turn work around.
Row 2: Rib 15 back to the middle of the row. Turn work again.
Row 3: Rib 15 to edge of work. Turn work.
Row 4: As Row 2.
Row 5: As Row 3.

Next row: Rib 15 and continue to rib across the 15 stitches from the other side of the buttonhole, rejoining the two sides of the work together.

Now continue in rib until work measures 21”. Bind off in rib.

Sew button on so that the two ends of the neckwarmer overlap neatly when it is done up.


To adapt buttonhole for different size buttons:

While you are knitting the first ‘side’ of the buttonhole, try the button through the gap you are creating. You want the buttonhole to be quite snug – make it so it seems a bit too small. Note whether the number of rows you knit on the first side of the buttonhole is odd or even. If it’s odd, proceed as above, rejoining the yarn in the middle of the work (at the bottom of the buttonhole) to work the second side of the buttonhole. If the number of rows is even, rejoin the yarn at the side of the work. This ensures you can knit straight across to rejoin after the buttonhole is finished.

To adapt the neckwarmer for a larger/ smaller person:

Keeping the knitting on the needle, try the neckwarmer on the recipient (or someone the same size as them) when you think it might be getting long enough. You want the end without the buttonhole to sit nicely across the top of their chest. At the point when the second end overlaps the first by about 3/4”, start making the buttonhole. Then continue until you have knitted 3” from the beginning of the buttonhole.

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