Man About Town neckwarmer with button

December 17, 2010 at 7:13 pm | Posted in knitting patterns | 1 Comment
Tags: , , , , , , ,

Man About Town neckwarmer


This pattern makes a neckwarmer that is 21” long, which fits my two-and-a-half year old. 2×2 rib makes it lovely and cosy. It looks smart and cute, and has the advantage that it can be taken off over the head by the child without undoing the button. (Click the thumbnail for a larger image.)

Materials

50g DK yarn

4mm circular needle**

Large button

**NB this pattern is knit flat, not in the round. But using a circular needle means you can restart knitting at either side of the work, just by pushing it along the needle. This makes it easier around the buttonhole. If you use straight needles, you may need to swap the stitches from one needle to the other at certain points making the buttonhole.

Method

Cast on 30 stitches.

Row A: *k2, p2. Repeat from * to end.

Row B: *p2, k2. Repeat from * to end.

Continue in this 2×2 rib pattern until work measures 18”.

Buttonhole

To work the buttonhole, you just divide the knitting in half, and work one side separately from the other. Then they are joined together at the top of the buttonhole.

Row 1: Rib 15, keeping in pattern (i.e. purl the purl stitches, and knit the knit ones). Turn work around, leaving the remaining 15 stitches un-worked on your needle.
Row 2: Rib 15 back to the start of the row. Turn work again.
Row 3: As Row 1.
Row 4: As Row 2.
Row 5: As Row 1.

Break yarn. Leave these 15 stitches on your needle. Reattach yarn to the work at the bottom of the buttonhole. Now work the other side of the buttonhole.

Row 1: Rib the remaining 15 stitches that you have been ignoring up to now. Turn work around.
Row 2: Rib 15 back to the middle of the row. Turn work again.
Row 3: Rib 15 to edge of work. Turn work.
Row 4: As Row 2.
Row 5: As Row 3.

Next row: Rib 15 and continue to rib across the 15 stitches from the other side of the buttonhole, rejoining the two sides of the work together.

Now continue in rib until work measures 21”. Bind off in rib.

Sew button on so that the two ends of the neckwarmer overlap neatly when it is done up.

Adaptations

To adapt buttonhole for different size buttons:

While you are knitting the first ‘side’ of the buttonhole, try the button through the gap you are creating. You want the buttonhole to be quite snug – make it so it seems a bit too small. Note whether the number of rows you knit on the first side of the buttonhole is odd or even. If it’s odd, proceed as above, rejoining the yarn in the middle of the work (at the bottom of the buttonhole) to work the second side of the buttonhole. If the number of rows is even, rejoin the yarn at the side of the work. This ensures you can knit straight across to rejoin after the buttonhole is finished.

To adapt the neckwarmer for a larger/ smaller person:

Keeping the knitting on the needle, try the neckwarmer on the recipient (or someone the same size as them) when you think it might be getting long enough. You want the end without the buttonhole to sit nicely across the top of their chest. At the point when the second end overlaps the first by about 3/4”, start making the buttonhole. Then continue until you have knitted 3” from the beginning of the buttonhole.

Kid’s stripey beanie

February 25, 2010 at 10:28 pm | Posted in knitting patterns | 2 Comments
Tags: , , , , , , ,

This pattern makes a beanie that fits a four-and-three-quarter year old with a head circumference of 20 inches… See below for some ideas on scaling up or down. (Click thumbnails above to see photos properly.)

It is knit in the round from the bottom up, using the magic loop method (courtesy of a very helpful video by knitpurlhunter on YouTube!). I planned to put a pompom on it, but the decreases looked so beautiful I left it as it was.

Yarn: King Cole Merino Aran, 1 skein main colour (MC), one skein contrast colour (CC)

Gauge: 18 stitches/ 25 rows to 10cm square (recommended needles are US8/ 5mm, but I needed US6/ 4mm to get gauge)

Directions

Using MC, cast on 80 stitches. Join to knit in the round.

round 1: *k2, p2. repeat from * to end of round.

Repeat round 1 until you have 1 inch of ribbing.

Straight section

Join in CC. Using CC, k all stitches for 3 rounds, twisting MC and CC together at beginning of each new round.

Using MC, k all stitches for 3 rounds, twisting MC and CC together at beginning of each new round.

This is the stripe pattern. Continue to work three rounds in MC, three rounds in CC, while following the rest of the directions.

Work in stripe pattern for 7 more stripes (= a further 21 rounds).

Crown shaping

round 1: *k8, k2tog. repeat from * to end of round. 72 stitches.

round 2: k all stitches.

round 3: *k7, k2tog. repeat from * to end of round. 64 stitches.

round 4: as round 2.

round 5: *k6, k2tog. repeat from * to end of round. 56 stitches.

round 6: as round 2.

round 7: *k5, k2tog. repeat from * to end of round. 48 stitches.

round 8: as round 2.

round 9: *k4, k2tog. repeat from * to end of round. 40 stitches.

round 10: as round 2.

round 11: *k3, k2tog. repeat from * to end of round. 32 stitches.

round 12: *k2, k2tog. repeat from * to end of round. 24 stitches.

round 13: *k1, k2tog. repeat from * to end of round. 16 stitches.

round 14: *k2tog. repeat from * to end of round. 8 stitches.

round 15: *k2tog. repeat from * to end of round. 4 stitches.

Cut yarn leaving tail of around 6 inches. Pass tail through each of the remaining 4 stitches using a crochet hook. Pull tight. Pull yarn end through to wrong side and weave in end. Weave in other ends. Bingo.

To scale up or down: PLEASE NOTE I have scaled this up for a 21″ head and it worked. BUT I have not tried knitting other sizes, so these are just suggestions!

Measure your intended recipient’s head and round up or down to the nearest inch. Add or subtract four stitches to/ from your cast-on for each inch you are adding or subtracting from the 20” head circumference in this pattern. Work the rib and straight section as above, adding an extra two stripes for every inch added to the head circumference.

Crown shaping: Here’s the maths part… take your number of stitches and find a way to divide it evenly by a number between four and eight. So if you add 4 stitches, that gives you 84 stitches, which divides nicely into 7 lots of 12 stitches. 88 divides into 7 lots of 11; 72 into 8 lots of 9, and so on.

Call the number of stitches you have in each ‘lot’ (i.e. 12, 11 or 9 in the examples above) A.

round 1: *k (A-2), k2tog, pm. Repeat from * to end of round.

round 2: k all stitches.

round 3: *k to 2 stitches before marker, k2tog. slip marker. Repeat from * to end of round.

round 4: as round 2.

round 5: as round 3.

round 6: as round 2.

Continue in this fashion until you have 4 stitches left between each pair of markers.

next round: *k3, k2tog. repeat from * to end of round.

next round: *k2, k2tog. repeat from * to end of round.

next round: *k1, k2tog. repeat from * to end of round.

next round: *k2tog. repeat from * to end of round.

next round: *k2tog. repeat from * to end of round.

Cut yarn leaving tail of around 6 inches. Pass tail through each of the remaining stitches using a crochet hook. Pull tight. Pull yarn end through to wrong side and weave in end. Weave in other ends.

Blog at WordPress.com.
Entries and comments feeds.